Day 11 - Basilica di Hamburgler and Musei Capitolini

The day begins with a quick stop into McDonald's. I know, it's a cheesy thing to do. However, silly or not, it had to be done. This was the first McDonald's in Rome, and being that it was near the Spanish Steps (home to every overpriced designer brand there is) they went a little beyond the average McDonald's interior. If ever you were a devoted zealot of the Big Mac and needed a church to call home, this would be it. With sweeping, vaulted ceilings and marble finishing, this place looks more like a scaled version of a basilica than a fast food hot spot. Making our donation to the 'Basilica di Hamburgler', we take our fries and strawberry shakes outside to get ready for our real stop of the day.

[video clip of the inside soon to come]

We make our way to the final museum of our trip through Rome, Italy. Just behind the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II, we find the Musei Capitolini: a beautiful three winged building at the top of a long, ramped set of stairs. At the top, you are greeted by a bronze replica of Marco Aurelio on horseback (the original is kept safely within the building. We pass through the main entrance of the expansive museum, walking past what remains of a colossal statue. Now, this towering figure is just an assembly of bodyparts taking refuge in a quiet courtyard.

From Italy Honeymoon

Inside, there are collections of tapestry and frescoes like those we saw the previous night in the Vatican Museums. In each room, there are the partial remains of bronze statues that keep watch over the art around them. One of these metal sentinels is a bull who has lost all but his belly and his legs. We pass through halls with art and sculpture dedicated to the memories of famous military captains and battles. In one room, two very large sculptures of popes lock eyes across the length of the room from each other. At one end is Vrbano VIII in white marble and the other is Innocentio X in dark bronze. They seem like a poetic night and day, arguing across an echoing forum of silent paintings.

From Italy Honeymoon

From Italy Honeymoon

Further along, Sarina and I come across a display of things recovered while digging the foundations of the neighboring Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II. Here we see a nearly pristine example of an elaborate alabaster and agate marble floor that reflects the kind of amazing craftsmanship and artistry that would have been seen all throughout the Roman Forums and the palace Palantini. Here as well are gems and other precious artifacts that were buried until the foundations of Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II were being excavated.

From Italy Honeymoon

The center room houses some of he museum's most prized objects. A white room, flooded with indirect light from the windows above, houses three important sculptures. The first is the original bronze statue of Marco Aurelio on horseback. This thing is massive, looming over the museum guests like a 25-foot titan. Across the room is a bronze statue treated with gold that shows Hercules with a club as big as one of his own legs. Across from Hercules are the shattered remains of a colossal bronze statue that when whole, was probably about 50-feet in height (maybe more). Catching both in my perspective, I imagine Hercules having just slain this mighty metal giant, surrounded by a cheering Roman crowd.

From Italy Honeymoon

After more halls of recovered and fractured artifacts from Romes glory filled days, We come to a special exhibit that showcases collections of sketches, drawings, books and articles explaining Michelangelo's influences on what we see now in the great buildings and churches of Rome. We get to see how he worked with the Vatican to create the now world renowned Basilica of Saint Peter -- the image that comes to mind whenever the word "Vatican" is mentioned. At the end of the exhibit, a message from the curators reads: "The show recounts all of Michelangelo's architectural projects in Rome with a truly extraordinary connecting thread: a spectacular set of drawings owned by the Buonarroti House."

The other wing of the museum is occupied in part by another special exhibit that is showing about two dozen highly regarded jewelry designers -- ORO di Roma. The works seem to be attempting to capture the essence of art from ancient Rome and Egypt. A little out of place, but very beautiful, with each case showing glittering examples of modern Roman imagination and craftsmanship.

We decide to end our day on a casual note. No pictures or long walks. Just a simple and relaxing dinner at a nearby family restaurant. We know we're at the right place when we see the locals waving to the owners: Angelo and Daniele. If the Romans approve, who are we to say otherwise.