Looking through notes and a couple books, we agreed to go check out The Apian Way (Via Appia Antica). Besides the fact that it wasn't Sunday -- the day they close the streets for the locals to bike ride and picnic -- there seemed no harm in checking it out today. Following the suggestions of Fromers, we took a Metro to Collia Albani. They suggested to take a short bus ride on the 660 the rest of the way to Via Appia Antica. Given they mentioned it wasn't a long bus ride, we figured: "Why not just walk that last little bit and see the neighborhoods?". This decision would bite us several times before the end of this adventure.
We got off the metro and mingled with the locals in this what was a very common part of the city. It was much like any medium residential area of a city. Tho not as lovely as the streets in Trastevere from a couple days prior; this place was more functional and less aesthetic. We checked out the local shops and supermarket. Sarina stocked up on some cheap nail colors at the 99-cent store, after which we treated ourselves to something from the nearby pastry shop. To this point, all seemed like a gentile and fair day in Rome.
The rest of the trip would consist of several misdirections and a series of confusing loops. To our displeasure, all three of our maps had decided that the area we were in would be a splendid place to put an advertisement, another mini-map, or just not include that part of the city all together. So, out amongst an endless array of 5-7 story apartment buildings, we were essentially flying in the blind. It seemed like every time there was a decision to make about what way to go, we made the wrong one. And the great thing about Rome (especially these non-tourist'ed areas) you have to go about 3 blocks before you're given any kind of information that would let you know you're headed the wrong way. Between the lack of road signs, ineffective maps, and a compass that was resisting it's role in this adventure, we were fighting our way slowly through the more dirty streets in Rome.
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
After about 3 hours of scouring the sidewalks (which were more like 1/3 of a bike lane and no curb to speak of) and dodging traffic, we had finally arrived at Via Appia Antica. This road that once saw Christ in his finally hours and welcomed back St. Peter to be subsequently martyred, was now split into two portions: north and south. The southern end of the road is nealry all large estate homes. Each one with lavished gardens and intimidating gates. All around is the smell of cut grass and burning piles were the numerous gardeners incinerate the cuttings and trimmings from their long day of upkeep.
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
The northern end is now a very busy car thoroughfare. You can guess which end we had to go. So, Sarina and I, thinking we had escaped the endless barrage of Italian drivers and narrow roads, pressed forward. I used my bright, reflective orange backpack as a means to alert the drivers of our presence. For about 2 miles, Sarina and I paced along the degenerating cobble stone street edges in search of Catacombe di San Castillo; one of the greatest and oldest of all the ancient christian burial grottoes. Along the way, we were able to get some pictures of a few very charming homes along the Via Appia Antica. Unfortunately, our grail hunt was met with no returns. We had stumbled upon the only day of the week that the catacombs are closed. So, deciding we would return on Sunday, when the catacombs are open and the streets are blessedly closed to cars, we made our way out of the labyrinth we had been fighting for a good five hours (and approximately 11 miles covered).
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
To reward ourselves surviving the pedestrian world of Rome, we too the Metro to the Spanish Steps and made our way to Piazza Navona for dinner and night photos. On the way we found the most famous McDonald's in all of Rome. However, we decided to come back when the sweets bar was open in the main foyer (yes, I'm still talking about McDonald's). I did tho check out their menu and prices. Some prices were pretty on par, while others made me laugh out loud. For a Mc Chicken sandwich they wanted 3.50 Euro (about five American dollars). At home they are 89 cents. I couldn't help but appreciate the international injustice.
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
In Piazza Navona, the place was teeming with life. Without the help of a proper clock, you'd have thought it was 8pm on a Saturday night. The piazza was full of painters, sketch artists, flower and toy sellers, street performers and the concert stage that had been set up since last Sunday. Talking with one of the event representatives, we found out the concert was a religious one, playing different groups of christian light-rock and acoustics. All this in effort to share their message of Christ to young men and women within Navona's own church: Chiesa di Agnese Agone. The steps to the church were lined with multi-colored tea light candles. The inside was beautiful and smoky. The air smelled of citronella and the speakers sounded the voices of two women reciting Catholic prayers. After observing the event, we searched Navona for a cafe to dine at.
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
Following dinner, we brought out the tripod and commenced with taking night time pictures of anything we could see that was interesting. The front of Chiesa di Agnese Agone was bathed in a flood light that would change colors every several seconds. Before leaving for home, we made sure to capture several shots of Bernini's famous Fountain of Four Rivers.
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| From Italy Honeymoon |
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